I would be completely remiss if I didn't devote a proper blog to Istanbul. Istanbul was the one big city that actually managed to capture my heart. It captured it in the same way that my college friend turned Istanbul resident, Jenn had several years ago; through copious amounts of anise flavored alcohol.
...well, there was much more to the city than raki, just as Jenn is much more than my favorite sassy lil' sot.
I reached Istanbul via bus from Izmir. Thankfully, there was none of this passport loosing which I am prone to. Izmir was lovely, and I was able to stay with the Durmaz family there, who were so incredibly kind. The mother and father did not speak a word of English, but we figured each other out. It was also just nice to be in a family unit after several months of travel. I owe Nalan (and Eray for introducing us) more than I could ever repay.
Jenn and her Nietzsche-lovin', Anatolian boyfriend, who I absolutely adore in spite of myself, live in Beyoglu So the first day in Istanbul (8/23) was spent ambling down the Istiklal Caddesi. The giant pedestrian mall that continues down towards Galata Tower, eventually branching into a number of alley ways lined with music stores. I was followed home by some fellow that fancied himself a gentleman I believe.
I spent pretty much all of day two wandering the Grand Bazaar, which is an beautiful covered market of more than 330,0000 sq feet. There are several streets clearly for tourists, but as I continued to wander I noticed shops and restaurants with a few locals perusing goods. A man also sang an Usher song to me while trying to convince me not only to buy some fancy Turkish tile, but that fate had brought us together. Lets just say I didn't buy any tile....and I was followed home...again. Different fella' same idea.
The following day was spent at home, cooking with Jenn, chatting like little teze. It was nice to just catch up...chuckle and cook. I will stop now before I start sounding like the salty moose from Eat, Pray, Fuck myself. Since I didn't really leave the house, I was not followed home.
My fourth day I spent walking through the Mosques of Istanbul. I entered the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. Words can't describe how massive these buildings feel. Nor can they do justice to the amazing artistry inside. History will tell you the Mosques meld a variety of cultural and artistic traditions. All I know, is they were rad.
Since Jenn and Aras were off the next day, we did a tour of the Bosphorus, and dinner/ drinks to follow near a small fish market. In Turkey, they really really know how to do food. Sooo good. This is the view from our plastic lawn chair table, where I had some kind of whole fish served to me on a huge tray. Since we were with Aras, I was not, in fact, followed home that night.
My final day was spent at the Basilica Cistern and Sulthanamet Palace. The Basilica Cistern was my favorite site in Istanbul. The subterranean structure feels very....ethereal. I have no word to use properly here. I am sure there is one, but I don't have it. Think Moria from Lord of the Rings. The place feels massive and hushed, despite having a few hundred tourists in it at any one time.
I left Istanbul that night, but I will be back.
